des moines internation airport around the island. Some say Portsmouth has lower prices, and perhaps this is true, but there are far

767-449-0900. Symes Zee, on King George V Street in Roseau, is famous for its live jazz on Thursday nights. Get there early if you want to snag a prime seat, but the action really picks up after 10 pm. 767-448-2494.

The resort climbs the hill that rises steeply from the black-and-white sand beach. Rooms were cleverly designed by Canadian owner Nick Troubetzkoy to be open to nature but screened from the view of other guests. All are large and rustically elegant, with high ceilings, open walls, and balconies that wrap around trees. You ll have the pleasant sensation of being outdoors while enjoying the comfort of inside conveniences. The furniture is handcrafted from local wood that blends perfectly with the island art, fresh flowers, tree-house views, and nature sounds that pour in from every direction.

around the island. Some say Portsmouth has lower prices, and perhaps this is true, but there are far fewer shops in the number-two town, so stick to Roseau if you re looking for specific items. If you re just browsing and hoping for a bargain, check out roadside vendors and stores in Carib Territory.